Monday, August 24, 2009

It's a Dry Heat


Wow. Today began nicely enough, Across the street from my motel in Yakima, there was a separated "Greenway," for bikes and peds. It took me all the way around the city, followed a river, and it was early, so the temperature, while slightly chilly, felt great. From there I headed out a few side streets on the east side of town past beautiful vineyards, and hooked up with highway 24. I had heard that morning on the news of a huge fire north of Sunnyside, which had 24 closed down on Friday, maybe part of Saturday. I also read about a restaurant, the Silver Dollar Cafe, that had burned in the fire. The local news said the roads were open, so I went for it. Scorched Earth! It was black on both sides of the highway, mostly to the south. The road itself was nice, big shoulders, smooth pavement. So far so good. I did go by the charred foundation of that cafe, that was sad. And as I would realize later, it might have been a great place to get some food. At one point there was a hand painted sign that said "Mule Poo, Back-Ordered." I wish I had taken a photo.

Thing is, from Moxee to Othello, or Connell (I think) There are no services. There is no shade. There are no shoulders once you turn north to go into the Saddle Mountain Wildlife Preserve. Still, The distance remaining looked OK. A little farther than I had hoped to do in a day, but, no mountain ranges, right?

My last bit of good news (possible life saving it turned out) was a rest area located Just before he refuge. Grass, water, restrooms! What an Oasis. I briefly considered camping there, because if I continued, it seemed like I'd be riding into the hottest part of the day, not a good idea. Still, only 36 miles to Othello, and a little further to Connell... I ought to be able to cover that right? Well, yes, but not the smartest thing I've tried. Once you turn east again, the road is as straight as you can imagine, and, it goes uphill. Not a lot, maybe 2-3%, but combined with chip-seal, no shoulder, and headwind, it was pretty difficult. As it got hotter, my speed kept decreasing. In two places, my attention wavered just enough to dip my wheel into the soft gravel off the edge of the pavement. I somehow didn't go down though, and was able to steer to a stop. I fantasized about someone offering me a ride. I started to get worried. Finally it seemed like I needed to stop every mile. I started worrying I might be getting into a bad region, medically speaking. I had water, though I was pacing it to make sure I didn't finish before I knew I had a destination within reach. There was eventually a ridge in view with some trees, the first possible shade I had seen in many miles. I got on the phone with Linda, and we decided I'd just make those trees, and then figure out what to do from there. Turned out to be an orchard, and I pulled in, there were sprinklers going, so I could drench my head cover without using drinking water. I dug into the trailer and got out my "camping food," and made myself a tuna sandwich of sorts. I could feel myself getting better as I downed it. After some time hanging out, I decided I felt good enough to continue, though Connell seemed depressingly too far. There was a sign, "Othello 10 miles," and though it was five to seven miles out of my way, I decided that would be my stopping place. Eventually, there was a really nice downhill. So strange to get back up into the twenties after forty miles of six to eleven miles per hour. Then, a left turn, and, uphill... well, by this time I was feeling better so I knew I could manage it. I even consulted a librarian to scope out the motels. On the way into town, my second Oasis: A taco truck! I stood in the shade and had two pork tacos. Then I asked the woman behind the counter how far to the nearest motel. Long blank stare. Finally, "Do you know where Main Street is?" Finally, I think maybe she was just trying to think of the words in English, but the way she explained it, It sounded like I was still many miles from a shower. Of course, one more hill up Main, I tried to find the Cabana Inn, but once I saw a Best Western sign, I was just done.

I think, tomorrow might be a short day. I need to make sure my routes have more towns. Some forests will be nice too. There is a campground not too far out, I'm going to think that over, and maybe make tomorrow be a little more safe and fun. Now to find some more food.

8 comments:

  1. Hey Kevin. You just went through the area where Jacquie grew up; i.e. Yakima and Moxee. Her mom's ashes (some of them at least) are buried under a tree we had planted in the Arboretum, which you rode by. Her mom walked that trail almost everyday (she lived in Moxee). Jacquie and I still go there often to see the tree. I agree tomorrow should be an easier day so you can regroup. It sounds like you may have been a little too close to the edge today. You're heading into some beautiful country - that is best seen from an air conditioned car, or in October. I love it.

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  2. Your afternoon riding conditions scared the crap out of me! I thought I was an eastern Washington expert, but I don't know Moxee. And I'm with Jeff on the beauty ahead: You're heading into the Palouse, with amazing light.

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  3. I'm following along in amazement...The view and perspective you get, the constant need to pay attention, the decisions to make...I'm so glad you prepared so well.

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  4. Ouch! Glad you found shade and tacos eventually!

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  5. Kevin,

    Too bad I couldn't meet up with you in Othello - I had to go to Seattle. I feel for you. It's hot and dry and more hot and dry. And no shade....hang in there. When looking for a town, google is not reliable. Most of those places that look like a town are not, just a wide spot in the road with an irrigation pump, maybe the train ran through there in an other century?

    Sheila

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  6. I am sitting here with a cold beer after having read all this to Lu, riveted, vicariously thirsty, and eager to hear how the next day went, and if you're now relaxing under a tree in those beautiful rolling hills of the Palouse after passing through such "towns"-without-pity as Curry, Sulpher, Kahlotus, and Washtucna.

    David W

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  7. David, I'm glad I didn't hear about the cold beer until now... I'm in the progress of posting my missing three days, while I was out of wi fi... taking a rest day in Lewiston!

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  8. I think Sheila is spot on. Most of the towns I know in southeastern Washington are actually granges. One of the towns we'd drive thru on the way to Pullman (when my dad would take the "back roads") was lovely -- and basically a ghost town. Back from when hopes for railroads were high.

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