M is for Missoula

And Montana, and mighty happy with how today went. First just let me say a little bit about the great people working at Lochsa Lodge. I'm feeling sometimes how isolated you can feel traveling alone, and it is such a comfort to be treated so nicely along the way. I had three meals at the lodge. Lunch right when I got there (bison burger), dinner that night (elk steak, it was amazing) and breakfast just before heading out on my climb up to Lolo Pass. This place is extremely comfortable, the people are super friendly. The rate on my little cabin was dirt cheap, and well worth it. I would have loved to stay longer and I hope I can go back with my family.

It was still very cool as I headed out the drive and up towards Lolo Pass. Breakfast and lots of coffee had me well stoked, and I felt good as I wound my way up the 5-7% grades. Once again, 7% felt like the effort, and when it occasionally slackened off to 5%, it felt like a relief. Most of the road stayed in shade because the ridge runs sort of north-south, and the sun was still low in the east. Ideal! For some strange reason, I feel like the miles click by more quickly in a climb. I just kept counting down, knowing every foot of climb was going in the bank and every mile brought me closer. A couple of trucks on their way down tooted and gave me the thumbs up. At least I think it was the thumb. Yeah, I'm sure it was. Actually helps.

I'm posting a photo of the sign just a mile shy of the top. I saw that sign and thought "well, my legs still feel fine," so I knew I had it make. 7200 and some odd feet up! I wondered how Lolo would stack up against Cayuse-Chinook. I have to say, they are very close, but maybe Chinook was a little harder. I had fun with this one.

The visitors center at the top is excellent. A little museum, gift shop, restrooms, and free wireless. Oh, and coffee. I grabbed the netbook and sat down with a cup, and posted the last couple of days of progress. I had zero cell or internet access once I left Kamiah.

The trip down is precipitous, at least for the first five miles or so. The pavement is good, but still no usable shoulder to speak of. Fortunately, I had absolutely no traffic behind me. I tried to keep it under twenty-five (the trailer feels a little funny at higher speeds, and they don't recommend it anyway). And I was thinking: "this is the last time this ride I should have to worry about my rims exploding." They didn't, and eventually the hill flattened out a bit. It's generally level or downhill all the way to Lolo.

Today is easily the best day of the trip so far. As I was riding along highway 12, now in Montana, I was thinking that I have been trying to follow how my mood relates to the riding conditions, if at all. I have had some highs and lows, and I'm not sure it necessarily correlates to my environment, but maybe. I'm glad I have a little inclinometer on my handlebars, because sometimes the road ahead can look downhill and I can't figure out why I'm having to put out so much effort. I look down, and sure enough, I'm going uphill. Also, I've noticed how a slight change in the roughness or smoothness of the pavement can really add up to stress or ease in riding, and my overall happiness. I've had great luck with wind so far. (quickly Kevin runs over to a tree and gives it a couple raps). Except for leaving Pomeroy last week, I haven't had to fight any major headwinds.

Just outside the town of Lolo, I stopped at a little store to top off my water, and as I'm filling up, a guy on a yellow bike swoops in and stops. He introduces himself as Brian, and says he's an intern at Adventure Cycling. He offers me his back yard to camp for the night. It's funny because he actually did it the way I would. He said "have a nice ride," bolted off ahead, almost out of sight, then I could see him make a u-turn in the distance and come back. Then he says "I meant to say, you can camp in my yard if you want." At the Adventure Cycling office, I meet Elliott, the guy who owns the house that Brian shares with him. He provides me a map. I am now in their back porch, using their wireless. This is nice.